Downtown Los Angeles

Article 047.

Don't call this a comeback, to quote LL Cool J [https://youtu.be/vimZj8HW0Kg?si=gAYd5avD9W3RWTeZ], cause I've always been here. Just occupied the last several months that writing, obviously, took a back seat. But there was something recent that moved me, compelled me to pick up my dormant pen and scribble this out. You would think it's because I got married again (say what?? saving that for another blog) but no, it's for a less personal reason. Four letters-- D.T.L.A. Once was a glory downtown, now it's far from its usual vibe. Filth and uneasiness is the semblance. Homelessness took over the streets and if you haven't been there lately, I challenge you to walk the trails and tell me if you feel safe and easy. I don't know if the city or state is doing anything about it and if they are, they certainly let things get outta hand. If they aren't at all, then what I've witnessed is not really surprising. How did we get this far? Why was it allowed for DTLA to succumb to such mediocrity?

First, the long awaited trip back in. I haven't driven to DTLA on a work week for several years now. It was actually a sad, sad sight. The drive going down slope from the north along Grand to Wilshire was a stroll down memory lane. The surprising misty Monday morning in the middle of summer made the scene even more nostalgic. The fog-kissed skyscrapers and over-all architecture used to be mesmerizing, still is actually, if you can pass by the sight of what looks like a fentanyl epidemic in the area. Just a decade ago, when I used to work at Olive and 12th, the atmosphere was completely different. Yes, there were homeless people but not as prevalent or alarming. Just a few here and there. Drugs weren't as evident and "yuppies" in their sharp business attires are aplenty. Bars and restaurants were alive and traffic was really, really bad-- which was a sign of a thriving downtown as people flock into the city wanting a piece of the modern urban action. DTLA was definitely poppin' then.

That iconic DTLA structure — the US Bank building!

But now it is a shadow of its former self. Puddles of urine and their pungent stains are common sights, not to mention the dog turd scattered around (why do dog owners let this be? pick up after your pets please). The air is a constant fight between the aroma of piss versus strong lingering weed. Business owners would have their staff hose down their building fronts hoping to offer a brief reprieve from the stench. Almost every corner is filled with "zombie-like" individuals and leery characters that makes you feel like a target. It was the sign of the times when there's security, would you believe, inside a Taco Bell!!! YESSSS, inside a Ta-co Bell!!! This is a clear indication of how outta hand things have gotten. They even left the construction of supposedly the tallest buildings in downtown (right in front of Crypto.com Arena), just hanging there, full of doodles in what ironically is becoming an LA landmark and amply getting coined as the "Graffiti Buildings". You can't miss it from the 110. Boarded up establishments and lesser traffic (lighter but still congested) tells the story of a downtown losing its luster, much like Downtown San Francisco (see Article 037). I wonder how Downtown Chicago is right now but from my last visit in 2021, it had all the makings of the two California downtowns. Downtown Chi is the vibe so I hope the city will hold on to its glory and not let it fall deep. And the last time I visited Downtown New York, like two decades ago, it was already in a state of sadness. Mesmerizing and overwhelming for sure but it never felt safe. Or is that an unfair statement? God bless these cities.

The Metro Train A-Line (Blue Line) ride that I now alternately take to downtown is an unsettling experience. The sudden screams of "looneys" scare the jibbers out of me and hustlers selling weed inside the train in broad daylight was an all time low. While I heard the Metro has been doing some improvements, the A-Line seems to have been left behind. In fairness, the tracks do go through the heart of rough neighborhoods so by design is the transport of choice by the lower class and may explain the lack of upkeep from the Metro. I know that these French visitors who were inside the A-Line with me this one instance, was not feeling safe and the disquietude in their faces spoke volumes. If I, a local, don't feel safe, how much more can visitors from other countries? Plus how can we let the insides of these trains go so putrid? My slight OCD is always triggered when it's time to sit inside the train, forcing me to swallow my anxiety about the unknown filth left behind by the previous passenger. To be fair, this is primarily an A-Line issue; the C and K lines are noticeably cleaner for the most part and have a stronger security presence. Not Japan neat but neater than the A for sure. I've also been eagerly waiting for the D-Line (Purple Line) extension to Westwood to finally open up, which would significantly shorten my commute. Yet I am equally concerned if that would invite the same crowd I see on the A-Line to the west side. On a positive note, the LAX Metro Transit Center is sweet. Security personnel are everywhere, which honestly is a tad overkill. The area is pristine and organized and it doesn't smell, period. It truly would be a big help to the LAX airport-bound commuters once the People Mover opens up in that location. The key there is sustenance. How long can they maintain it slick and immaculate? I'm hoping that it goes beyond the 2028 Olympics but who knows. I have faith Los Angeles so let's all wait and see.

The train gods would be proud of LAX Metro Transit Center!

My wife's new job at DTLA sparked discussions of us moving in the area. It was a hard pass for me and I think she understands why. While it will be so convenient for our commute, as the miles is already taking a toll on us (to think it's only been two months), the pros don't really outweigh the cons. The thought of living in downtown is playing with my "youthful independent" persona once again but my longing for ease and comfort is too sturdy. The air quality is definitely worse, traffic is still bad compared to Orange County and the predominantly congested one-way streets would be a challenge for her driving. Restaurant prices are insane, there's limited grocery options and getting to the nearest freeway during weekdays will be a hassle. But my primary concern is safety and security. News about random assaults in LA are facts. So why would I expose myself to that kind of environment, let alone my wife? Maybe, and this is a big maybe, a move somewhere in Westlake, Atwater Village, Korea Town or even Larchmont could be a compromise. You'll never know. The DTLA faithful seems like they are tapering on this, clinging on this glimmer of hope that the tide would finally turn around. I hope they are right. 

In more recent trips back, the streets seemed to have tamed down albeit inconsistently. There are days where you don't see nobody and there are days that you do. But majority of the homeless may have congregated around the Fashion and Toy Districts away from the epicenter, which I've noticed passing along there one early morning. The fear brought upon by ICE raids had resulted in closed stalls along 9th street and traffic was not hectic at all for morning rush hour. It was eerily different. There's understandably a lot of questions with these recent developments, and with the politics nowadays, there is no way to please anybody no matter what path the city takes. Los Angeles is known for pirating superstars to their sports franchises vis-a-vis Luka to the Lakers and Shohei to the Dodgers, so perhaps the city can entice a political phenom to turn things around?? No, not happening?? Honestly, I shouldn't be writing this as my long-hiatus comeback. It's too socio-political. I should've gone with either marriage no. 2, or me about to be golden, or even the recent deaths to co-workers as my topic of choice. But nope, here I am, riding the feels of patriotism or maybe nostalgia, intertwining the two like it goes hand and hand. So no, this definitely isn't a comeback. A proper one up next (wink).